Koz Ross

In a bid to try and discover any non-miniature-related uses of my resin printer, a discussion I had in a community I belong to made me think that resin printing 608 (or similar style) bearings might be a worthwhile endeavour. Because of the various interesting aspects of this process, I figured I'd document it in a thread for anyone else who might be interested. 1/? #3DPrinting #Resin3DPrinting @3dprinting@techhub.social

@Pippz@infosec.exchange @3dprinting@techhub.social No, you don't understand: it _literally makes no difference_ when you do a proper differential test like a voluflow racetrack. It likely has _other_ downsides too, but my problem isn't that: it's that manufacturers are lying through their teeth _and_ upcharging into the bargain.

Dear filament manufacturers: if you're going to claim your filament is 'high-flow', either provide a racetrack or shut the fuck up. Stop lying to people. IME _every time_ I have seen a 'high flow' claim, it was basically a marketing lie attached to a price increase.

Brought to you by me getting nerdsniped into testing a PETG advertised as 'high-flow'... which couldn't even beat _PETG-CF_ at the same temperature.

#FDM #3DPrinting

@3dprinting@techhub.social

It has been 0 days since I found a resin trap in a paid model.

FWIW, it _wasn't_ an OPR one this time!

@3dprinting@techhub.social

#Resin3DPrinting

@3dprinting@techhub.social It has now been zero _hours_ since I found a resin trap in an OPR model.

It has been 0 days since I found a resin trap in an OPR model.

I seriously don't understand what's up with their QC process. This is, no joke, the _fourth_ time I've had this problem. What is their bizarre fixation with having people print resin grenades?

@3dprinting@techhub.social

#Resin3DPrinting

@grmpyprogrammer@yac.grumpy-learning.com The first one fails the criterion for an external filament sensor. The second one seems to have a very poor fit, according to at least one report: https://www.printables.com/make/2690089

#3DPrinting Fedi: I am looking for a riser for the lid of my Creality K1 Max, as I'm getting a bit sick of all the reverse Bowden routing issues in the stock design. However, I need the following requirements to be met:

* No air vents in the riser, at least as an option.
* The ability to externally mount the filament sensor.
* Not too much plastic use (as far as reasonable).

Any good suggestions? I've seen a bunch of designs, but don't know which to pick.

@3dprinting@techhub.social

It has been 0 days since OPR designs have failed to print for me. To be fair, this is more of a general problem with presupported miniatures than with OPR specifically, but it's still obnoxious.

#Resin3DPrinting #3DPrinting

@3dprinting@techhub.social

@3dprinting@techhub.social Addendum: when it comes to layer adhesion, Polymax PC absolutely _crushes_ Polymaker nylons. We're talking about a difference between ~70% layer adhesion (Polymax PC) versus ~60% _at best_ (PA6-CF IIRC).

@3dprinting@techhub.social So, what can we learn from this?

• Once again, when buying technicals, 'no TDS, no sale'. It was only this information that allowed me to make an informed choice here!
• If you care about practical tensile strength and impact resistance, Polymax PC may be better than you expect. It's a lot easier to work with than nylons, has no CF or GF (which some folks care about), and is a damn sight cheaper too (like, half the price?).
• Read the TDS instead of assuming.

5/5

@3dprinting@techhub.social Now, to be clear, there _are_ some properties where nylons win regardless (stiffness and temperature resistance primarily), but this largely stems from Polymax PC not being CF or GF-reinforced. Stuff like tensile strength and impact resistance? Polymax PC is at least no worse than any Polymaker nylon when wet, and in most cases, is significantly better. Also worth mentioning that annealing and conditioning can come into this too, but that would require further testing. 4/?

@3dprinting@techhub.social Now, this is the fun part: When wet, nylons, CF, GF or none, from Polymaker, are _weaker_ than Polymax PC! This genuinely surprised me, as I had always been led to believe that if you wanted strength above all else, nylons were the way to go. However, this only seems to apply (at least for Polymaker's nylons) when they're dry. In some cases, the difference is _enormous_: 50% dropoff or more. That saved me a tonne of time and money! 3/?

@3dprinting@techhub.social Luckily, Polymaker have a useful filament property comparison tool: https://app.polymaker.com/ What's most interesting here is that for their nylon range (CF, GF and neither), they show filament properties both when dry _and_ when wet. Given that my workshop is a goddamned swamp, anything I printed out of any nylon that lived there would get water-logged fast. Thus, I compared the 'wet' values to Polymax PC. 2/?

Fun #FDM discovery yesterday. I was printing some clamps for my new CNC, and of course, I wanted the strongest material I could get my hands on. I have Polymax PC to hand, but I could also source some CF or GF nylon (also from Polymaker).

Now, one thing I learned about nylon (from this video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u8dIpwd6tzo) is that nylon is _so_ hygroscopic that finished prints absorb water and change their properties as they do so. This helped set the context for what I saw.

@3dprinting@techhub.social

1/?

@nanianmichaels@tech.lgbt @3dprinting@techhub.social Yeah, that surprised me too at first. However, it's a sensible choice here: something less stiff would probably be harder to work with, as it would try to bend where it's not meant to.

So, I got a new CNC, which I am slowly learning to use. It's been fairly good so far, apart from the position of the estop button, which was less than great.

However, I have an #FDM printer, and #FreeCAD, so I fixed this problem. Figured I'd publish it for everyone to use and modify.

https://www.printables.com/model/1530863-lunyee-3018-cnc-endstop-relocation

#3DPrinting #CNCMachining

@3dprinting@techhub.social

Just came across this video. Really clever combination of ideas! Never thought this could work with FDM.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FNVBK7-h9Fs

#3DPrinting #FDM

@3dprinting@techhub.social

@stargirl@hachyderm.io @josefprusa@mas.to There's two forces at play here AFAICT:

• A lot of (mostly Europe-based) people are unconditional fanboys of Prusa in spite of all evidence to the contrary; and
• A lot of people in the 3D printing space do not understand what 'open source' means.

Prusa have (for no good reason) developed a reputation for being 'friendly' and 'open'. Combine with Eurochauvinism and ignorance, and this kind of reaction is both utterly expected and entirely sad.

@stargirl@hachyderm.io @josefprusa@mas.to Thank you so much for making this! Reading it was both entertaining and informative. It won't convince the Prusa fanboy crowd, but at least it's there to point sensical people at next time someone says Prusa are an 'open source company' or something similar.

Really cool thing I discovered recently: https://ochafik.com/openscad2/

This is basically OpenSCAD running in your browser. Really handy for doing small modifications, or working on a parametric part, without installing anything.

@3dprinting@techhub.social

Really useful video for folks who are planning to build or upgrade an #FDM printer. tl;dw: sticking a heatsink on the bottom of the motor won't do much, you want one on the side.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eerxaoaRhQI

@3dprinting@techhub.social

#3DPrinting