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@themaritimegirl@tech.lgbt

Post #2171495

2026-05-03 20:36 UTC

Huh, I have never run into this problem ever. This is the first 0.33 uF electrolytic capacitor I've ever run across in something. You literally can't buy them on DigiKey, at least through-hole ones. Do I leave it? Replace it with a 0.47? Replace it with a ceramic equivalent? I guess I'll leave it for now and get input from the folks on Tapeheads.

Replies (3)

  • @themaritimegirl@tech.lgbt 2026-05-03 22:46

    Of the 9 capacitors I replaced, the larger ones tested okay, while the smaller ones ranged from weak to bad, so this was a good exercise. These were crowded around a large heatsink notorious for getting very hot in these decks, so replacement of them is recommended even if the deck seems to be working fine still.

    Open ##2171496

  • @manawyrm@chaos.social 2026-05-03 20:49

    @themaritimegirl Depends on the schematic, so yeah, have some folks look over it. I'd probably swap it out for a 330nF tantalum, which is hopefully fine, but... yeah, worth a closer look for sure.

    Open ##2171521

  • @sibrosan@mastodon.social 2026-05-03 21:19

    @themaritimegirl Given that's an audio device, do not replace the capacitor by a ceramic, at these relatively high capacitance values they are very nonlinear and won't have the nominal capacity when biased with a DC voltage. Weird that I can't find any suitable part at Digi-Key... My suggestion would be AVX TAP334K050SCS (tantalum) or KEMET R82DC3330AA60J (film), both reasonably priced at Mouser. (I see that Digikey also has the latter in stock, so maybe my way of searching is wrong)

    Open ##2171522